The first step is to remove the ring gear from the case. The bolts are torqued firmly, and they have threadlock on them so they won’t back out – so I used my 3/4-inch impact wrench to loosen ONLY.
Then I used my hand ratchet to back the bolts all the way out. Don’t act like NASCAR – if you gall the bolts you have to buy new ones, and they aren’t at your hardware store.
Next, remove the lock pin and center shaft (in that order) using a punch and hammer (above).
The center shaft will be re-used, but the lock pin can be replaced with a kit.
Be aware of the white line that is drawn down the case housing and center shaft. This line will be used again to line up the lock pin hole on re-assembly.
Once the center shaft is out, I used an round pry bar to turn the case while the spider gears were held in place by a stub axle in my vise.
The photo above shows how the side gears and thrust washer come out of the case.
It takes quite a bit of effort to turn the case housing with the pry bar, so make sure the assembly is securely tight in the vise.
The spider gears and clutch packs come out once the side gears are removed (left). The clutch packs are a stack of grooved plates (right).
These grooves counteract each other when the car turns to allow only the correct amount of wheel spin.
Splines hold the clutches on the spider gears, and these splines also contact the stub axle splines. Just Differentials also sells the correct clutch packs for the Dana 36.
Once all re-used and new parts are lubricated, time to rebuild the differential.
At left, new clutch packs are installed. The bottom packs are under the lower spider gear inside the case.
I came up with a unique way to keep the upper clutch packs and spider gear in place while the side gears were inserted – and it’s all in Chapter 10.
And I used hardware I already owned!
Here’s the completed differential. The thrust washers fit between the side gears and the case housing – and they are a bear to get re-installed. Chapter 10 of my book reveals all the tools and methods to make this scary rebuild easy.
Pressing on new bearings, setting up the backlash, pinion depth, and rotating torque, I used the minimum tools required. I used many sources of information, and when that didn’t work, I used common sense.
And my book has all the details.