After sandblasting both calipers, they were treated to high-temp caliper paint from Eastwood.
I chose black to match the theme of the car, and because the 1996 Grand Sport had black calipers – not red ones.
The G2 Caliper Paint System comes with paint, catalyst, brush, and brake cleaner. Make sure the calipers are cleaned well before painting.
First, we need to replace the caliper bore seal. The seal prevents brake fluid from bypassing the piston in the bore. It is removed using a pick, or worst case, a small screwdriver.
BE CAREFUL! Don’t damage the bore in any way. Any damage may cause leaking or brake failure. The new seal needs to be lubricated with the supplied grease.
Make sure the seal is not twisted in the bore groove. Also, grease the bore thoroughly – but make sure you have cleaned it first with brake cleaner and blown it out to remove all particulates.
Once the new inner and outer boots are installed in the new retainer plates, the collar is re-assembled. A new Preload Spring is used (top left) – and must be installed correctly.
At top right, is the assembled collar. Make sure the push rod is seated in the groove of the actuating collar, then pinch the ends together with pliers and tap the retaining tabs down. This assembly should be tight with no loose parts.
The kit also includes new Compliance Bushings for the clamp rod (not shown). Lubricate all parts with the supplied grease and slide the clamp rod back into the collar assembly.
After cleaning the caliper piston with brake cleaner, lube it thoroughly, then push the piston into the bore – it’ll be tight, and that’s okay. Set a small block of wood on the piston and gently tap it down into the bore. I have a small shop press that did this without all the pounding.
But don’t “Bubba” the piston into the bore too far! Only tap or push it until the top of the piston is even with the caliper bore.
Once the piston is seated correctly, insert the Clamp Rod with Collar Assembly into the piston. Then seat the inner boot lip into the bore groove.
The collar springs are next. They install from the back of the caliper, but don’t install the e-brake lever yet! (right). Use needle-nose pliers to hook the spring to the collar flange (far right). It’s important they attach on the second coil.
Remove the Bleeder Screw and blow it out with compressed air (left). The kit has a new dust cap for the bleeder.
Also, I strongly suggest you buy new brake hoses. The hose is attached to the caliper using a banjo bolt, which has a hydraulic hole in it. Two copper washers are also needed for the hose install.
Brake hoses are under tremendous hydraulic pressure and any imperfection can lead to catastrophic brake failure.
Install the brake pads making sure the inner pad has the wear tab indicator. The caliper bracket fits over the pads with each end of the pad backing plate fitted into the notches of the bracket.
Before installing the bracket though, first you need to install the guide pins into the bracket, as described below.
New guide pin boots from the kit are lubed and installed over the pins, and the pins are lubed too.
Then the guide pins go into their caliper bracket housings. Next, the pivot pin is fastened to the caliper along with the abutment bracket, as seen at left.
Use a metric hex-key size HW6 to secure the bolt. The lower guide pin is fastened to the caliper bracket by a regular hex-head bolt.